Canvas Tote Bag pattern making and creation tutorial - Digital Pattern Library guest post

Introducing Alexandra and the Digital Pattern Library

Alexandra wears many hats: entrepreneur, fashion designer, pattern cutter, consultant, teller of bad jokes and your new creative cheerleader. After graduating from a BA (Hons) in fashion Alex entered the fashion industry, discovered some aspects of it that didn't sit right with her and left the industry to start her own adventures. This journey brings her to today with the Digital Pattern Library, where she gives her customers access to high-end fashion at fast-fashion prices but the catch is they have to make it themselves!

We discovered her channel when we spied that she was using our PatternMaster in some of her awesome tutorials and asked if she'd be interested in creating a tutorial on pattern making, showcasing the different tools you can use that we carry in our range. You can watch the full tutorial video here or check out the step-by-step instructions in the blog below.

Now that we've introduced Alexandra and the Digital Pattern Library, we'll let her take it away:

MAKE YOUR OWN CUTE AND AFFORDABLE CANVAS TOTE BAG

At the start of the year, I expressed my 2024 sewing intentions with a list that included an item to replace my old, battered backpack.

Whilst the reliable accessory had seen me through my student days, providing enough space to carry my laptop, sketchbooks, PatternMaster and other creative tools for the job to and from university, and, in later years - the daily commute once I entered the industry; it was time to accept as a grown woman that I, in fact, had outgrown the juvenile rucksack and wanted something more… classic.

But not boring.

That’s right, I wanted to add a tote bag to my dream wardrobe.

However, your ‘standard’ winged silhouette and basic carry handle was not going to cut it. I’m a fashion designer, after all. So, I needed to upgrade with a little bit of spice whilst still maintaining a versatile and practical design.

For those who follow me over on Instagram, you may have had a part to play in the development of this idea, as I shared behind the scenes, asked for your thoughts and feedback and ultimately took you on the journey turning my hand from garment skills to handbags.

As usual, I had made it 6 months through the year with very little progress made on my personal project, and that is when Morplan approached me.

I was first introduced to Morplan at the start of my student years and directed, by my university, to purchase several fashion design tools ahead of my studies.

Since then, I have been a satisfied, paying and returning customer with a personal soft spot for their high quality Pattern Masters amongst a range of other fashion design products that help me develop my ideas and turn them into reality. In fact, they were a one-stop shop for all supplies needed to create my tote.

So, with a supportive and inspiring nudge from Morplan, it was time to design, draft and sew my dream bag. Whilst I’ll offer a brief overview of the development process below, be sure to scroll down for the pattern, sewalong and full YouTube video, so you can make your own version at home. With a rough idea in mind, sketching out and visually communicating my tote concept was the easy breezy part. Using the scale and proportion technique taught inside the 3 Day Design Challenge, I experimented with the core design details of my initial idea to produce a page of work and options to choose from, i.e. the external pocket and ruffles.

CREATE | The Design Process

Now I knew I wanted my bag to be a considerable size, given the extensive list of bulky items I carry to meetings from the studio…

…but as my zone of genius really isn’t in the land of accessory design, I was nervous to follow my usual creative process of jumping straight into the pattern drafting phase in fear of wasting resources and making mistakes. Have you ever had that pre-project hesitation?

I decided the best thing to do in a bid to reduce my overwhelm was start small.

Testing Out My Idea

Using scrap pieces of pattern paper, a ruler, pencil, paper scissors and some trusty Pritt Stick - I started crafting in miniature.

This is a great technique to improve the chances of success with your sewing projects without wasting full-scale resources. I would advise trying to use the lighter weight pattern paper instead of printing paper, especially if your design includes volume in certain areas, like my decorative ruffles.

Crafting in miniature and testing my idea with paper allowed me to fold and refine my design to confirm the success of my pattern pieces and shapes before scaling up for a full-size pattern.

I cut calico with confidence, reduced my mistakes and saved on precious and expensive resources.

CUT | Pattern Making

Following my small experiment, it was time to draft the pattern. To scale it up, I divided the desired final width of the bag by the width of the mock-up to find my multiplier.

It’s important to note, just because I moved onto the “Cut” phase of my signature Create, Cut, Construct framework, doesn’t mean I stopped designing. The entire process intertwines and relates to one another, so as I was drafting my final pattern, I continued to make small changes.

These included increasing the depth of the bag by an additional 5CM, drafting a separate facing instead of having a self-faced edge and increasing my original seam allowance to ensure this design would be beginner friendly if I chose to release the pattern.

Spoiler alert: I chose to release the pattern.

CONSTRUCT | How To Sew The DPL Tote

What You Will Need

The DPL Tote PDF Sewing Pattern
Your chosen fabric for both the bag and lining
(calico, canvas or cotton recommended)
Heavyweight iron-on interfacing
Sewing machine and matching thread
Measuring tape
Pins or clips
Scissors or rotary cutter
(and a cutting matt if using the latter!)
Ruler
Fabric marker or chalk
OPTIONAL: Labels to personalise the front of the bag

Step 1: Cut, Prepare and Gather

Cut your seven pattern pieces out as directed on the pattern, including your heavyweight interfacing for the base. (Use the template provided).

FRONT POCKET (1) AND STRAP (2)

Fold the top edge of your FRONT POCKET (1) over twice to the wrong side enclosing the raw edge and finishing your pocket opening neatly. Fold once 0.5CM, and again 1CM to make the full 1.5CM seam allowance - press with a hot iron and stitch in place.

Whilst I am using a medium weight calico for this example, your chosen fabric may need more structure. If you prefer reinforced straps, cut interfacing strips to match.

To fold your continuous STRAP (2) pieces, press in half lengthways before folding the edges in to meet the crease you’ve just made down the middle.

Fold again to sandwich the raw edges on the inside before edge stitching at the machine to enclose everything. For an optional extra design detail, topstitch parallel rows of stitching along the full length of the strap. The strap is 5CM in width, so 0.5CM intervals of stitching are suggested.

TOP TIP: If you are struggling with straight lines of stitching, try shifting your gaze from the machine needle to the edge of the fabric!

Next, fold your RUFFLE (3) piece right sides together and lengthways, press in half at the iron before sewing the two short edges with a 1.5CM seam allowance. Trim away the excess, be careful not to snip through any stitching. Turn your ruffle pieces right sides out ensuring you have sharp corners and give everything a good press.

At the sewing machine, change your stitch length to the longest setting before sewing two lines of parallel stitches within the 1.5CM seam allowance. Do not backstitch.

Gently pull on the bobbin threads to start gathering your RUFFLE (3) pieces. Alternatively, you can use a gathering foot if you prefer to avoid this manual technique.

To round off the preparation phase, you may wish to add a personal touch by centring a label of your choice to your front pocket. Pin in your desired place and edge stitch to secure before basting your FRONT POCKET (1) wrong side to the right side of your CENTER PANEL (4).

Step 2: Attaching the Straps

Place each strap 1.5CM from the edge of the CENTRE PANEL (4), aligning to the notches.
Take your time to ensure they are aligned and pin them in place. We’re shifting them in to make sure they’re not caught within the seam allowance, so precision is key here!

Sew along the existing stitching line to attach the straps. When your line of stitching reaches the edge of the front pocket, reinforce the corners with a stitching design of your choice. I have opted for a bounding box with a cross through the middle.

This adds strength to an area of the bag that will be in regular use and is therefore considered a ‘stress point’.

As you stitch down both edges of each strap, securing it to the front and back of your bag CENTRE PANEL (4), make sure to leave about an inch or 2.5CM from the top edge of the bag to accommodate the seam allowance for the facing panel pieces.

Step 3: Sewing the Main Body

Align the front and back panel pieces at the base, using the position of the straps and the notches to help, and sew them right sides together with a 1.5CM seam allowance.

Press your seam open at the iron before flipping your work with right side facing you. Add a line of top stitching on either side of the seam to reinforce the base. This can also be done as an optional design detail in a contrast colour to match those of your straps!

You should now have both your front and back CENTRE PANEL (4) joined at the base.

To position the ruffles, ensure they’re pinned equally at least 1.5CM down from the top edge to avoid catching in your facing seam allowance. They should run down the seam allowance to the side of the strap on your front centre panel piece. Initially, your ruffles will point inwards towards your FRONT POCKET (1).

If the layers of fabric are proving too thick, you may wish to swap from pins to clips to secure your work. Other suggestions to help you work with bulkier projects include a longer line of stitching, heavier duty needle and/or hand sewing.

Once your ruffles are temporarily secured, sandwich them between your front panel and SIDE PANEL (5). Don’t forget the wider edge of the side panel is at the top to achieve the desired silhouette of the tote!

Press the seam allowance of your ruffles and front pieces under and stitch in the ditch to secure the ruffles facing the right direction towards the side of the bag.

Sew the SIDE PANEL (5) to both the front and back CENTER PANEL (4) with a 1.5CM seam allowance and press. You should now be able to see The DPL Tote starting to take shape, exciting!

…the problem is, we have two rather unpractical holes in the base.

Using your fingers to pull the corners of this notched hole taught, close each corner of the base with a straight line of stitching using a 1.5CM seam allowance. Your base seam will align to the centre of your SIDE PANEL (5). Pin, sew and press.

Step 5: Constructing the Lining

Before proceeding, consider adding a pocket for practicality. You can follow this free tutorial to add a welt pocket, as I did in the example, or decide on your own interior storage solutions, perhaps with the help of this fashion file pack.

Cut the lining pieces and sew right sides together with a 1.5CM seam allowance. , similar to the main body.

Close the corners of the base once more as illustrated a little clearer here. Don’t forget to press your seams as you go!

Next, take your FACING (7) pieces and sew them right sides together along the two short edges to create a band. Press your seams open before pinning the top edge of your lining to the bottom edge of your facing, right sides together and matching at the side seams. Sew a 1.5CM seam allowance to join the two together.

Step 6: Final Assembly

Place the lining inside the outer bag, right sides together. Align the seams and pin in place. Sew the top edge closed by stitching 1.5CM around the last raw edge, leaving a small gap for turning everything through.

Turn the bag right side out through the gap before pressing the edges at an iron. You should be able to press the edges of the gap together and top stitch around the entire edge for a clean finish.

Be careful to move your ruffles out of the way so you don’t get them caught!

Tips for Success

Take your time: Precision is key, especially when positioning the straps.
Use an iron: Pressing your seams and fabric pieces at every step will give your bag a professional look.
Test your machine settings: Adjust the stitch length for thicker fabrics to ensure smooth sewing.

Celebrate Your Creation

Once your tote bag is complete, take a moment to admire your work. Share your creation on social media using the hashtag below and enjoy the satisfaction of making a functional and stylish accessory with your own hands.

A big thank you to Morplan for partnering with me on this project, be sure to enter the code ‘FreeCoffee’ at checkout for a £5 voucher to redeem on vital caffeine needed to see you through the creative hours we spend at our machines!

You can buy the #THEDPLTote for yourself here